Nevertheless, Thanksgiving is coming again and we will be celebrating it in our new tradtional fashion just like last year (when about 90 people participated).

Everyone has something for which to be thankful:  for me those things include friends, better health, 40kg less weight, and lots of good business.  On this day of craziness which ends the “silly season” in the US, I am especially thankful to be here and not there.
The Southron’s gang will provide some turkeys and asado (I’m not sure if either the Pilgrims or the Gauchos would really approve of the mix), and we ask everyone else to bring along a side dish and anything else they would like to add to the feast.

As before, Clara Lundquist has been appointed Grand High Menu organizer because of her ability to badger, wheedle and otherwise keep everyone in line.  And because she did such a great job, I volunteered her again this year.  Please cooperate as Clara organizes the menu and tries to get a head count so we know how much food to buy.

Since this is going to be the very last of the weekly Thursday night Open House gatherings here in Buceo (more about that later) I hope that everyone will try to attend.

Because yerba maté (the tea and the gourd) is so popular in Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay, there are many different styles of  matés from which to choose.  Being the clumsy sort, I asked for one with the legs firmly attached to decrease the chances of spilling both the tea and the tea leaves all over my keyboard.  So my maté is not fancy–it is simply a workman-like gourd with four well braced feet attached and a metal rim around the top to further prevent me from breaking it.

I understand there is some arcane process for preparing the gourd for use, but since I am not yet a Uruguayan citizen, it is illegal for me to know the secret.  I think is involves snippets of ritual from the Freemasons, the now extinct (or nearly so, depending upon with whom you speak) Charrua Indians, and probably a bit from the 16th century Rituale Romanum.

Starting the day with yerba maté is quite an evolution for me (and we all know how much I dislike that concept). No doubt some of you will remember my description of the taste of mate in my book as similar to “cigarette ashes”.

The main reason for changing was simply that I thought drinking maté might be healthier for me than consuming a liter of coffee every morning.  Certainly, there appears to be a consensus that maté is superior.  But then, there was once a consensus that Saint Joan of Arc was a witch a needed to be burned at the stake…

For the sake of accuracy, I must point out that in many situations, yerba maté can be extremely dangerous.  More than a few Uruguayos bear the scars from this danger.

The primary danger from yerba maté is not the chemical that supplies the stimulation in place of caffeine, it is from the darned thermos bottle that is invariably carried by maté drinker crooked in their left arm (unless they are southpaws).

More than once, some holding a maté in one hand and a thermos in their arm has leaned over to give me an abrazo and poured boiling water on me–once day they even managed to scald my dog Harry.  This is not fun!  Now, when someone approaches me with a thermos in their arm, I stiff arm them like a Notre Dame lineman and hope that my exposed arm doesn’t get burned…

Maybe it is a hold over from the concept of “the survival of the fittest”?

You may recall that a few weeks ago Borko and I tried to lunch at Gran China but ended up being too late and doing burned meat and raw fish instead.

Today we made it. I was actually able to get Borko up and out the door in time for us to arrive in Centro before 2PM.

Our repast was wonderful. We had hot and sour soup (for me), wonton soup (for Borko), 12 steamed pork dumplings (which were marvelous—even Borko admitted they “weren’t bad”—from Borko the only thing better than not bad is “authentic Serbian”), the house special friend rice, sweet and sour beef (for Borko) and spicy chicken (for me—it was very nearly Kung Pao). We topped it off with Cokes and water (yes, they had real Coke, not the sweetened mud).

The hot and sour soup was slightly spicy, but you could really notice it and the spicy chicken left a pleasant burn in your mouth—not a Thai pepper burn, or a 5 alarm chili burn, but a pleasant sensation that didn’t require instant amelioration.

The total tab was UY$905. Not cheap for most food in Uruguay, but not out of line for Chinese food here, and certainly worth it to have something approaching Szechuan.

Gran China is a small store front, two tables wide with a aisle between them. It is obviously a Mom and Pop place—not fancy, but really good. And the menu is also in English which is reasonably comprehensible—you just have to understand that Chinese ravioli means dumplings…and other things like that.

On a world wide scale, I give it 3 stars; but for Uruguay Chinese food it is 5+.

Gran China — San José 1077 entre Río Negro y Paraguay — Centro — Tel: 9082029

]]> http://www.uruguayliving.com/2008/02/02/hot-sour-and-spicy/feed/ 0 http://www.uruguayliving.com/2008/01/20/the-late-escape/ http://www.uruguayliving.com/2008/01/20/the-late-escape/#comments Sun, 20 Jan 2008 14:17:51 +0000 The Southron http://www.uruguayliving.com/2008/01/20/the-late-escape/ Every so often my office begins to feel like a Yankee prisoner of war camp–the same stultifying routine exacerbated by the view of the outside world just beyond the fence. Yesterday I decided to do something about it. Borko and I broke out in the afternoon and went off in search of spicy Chinese food for lunch. (In Uruguay they generally consider a light dusting of back pepper to be heavy spicing; consequently the Chinese food here is almost always of the Cantonese variety, made even bland enough for a New England Yankee’s taste.)

I remembered a lunch more than 18 months ago at a hole-in-the wall restaurant in Centro that had some decent Szechuan dishes. Amazingly I found their business card so Borko and I went out in search of Gran China at San José 1077. We actually found it.

Of course, by the time we got there, it was 14.45 (that’s 2:45PM for those of you who cannot subtract 12) and they were closing in 15.00 (if you still need help, that is 3PM). Damn!

But all was not lost! While scanning the storefronts for Gran China I noticed an intriguing sign just a few doors before it: Parilla and Sushi–burned meat and raw fish–what an interesting combo. Borko checked and they were open for another 7 hours, which we figured was enough time to eat, take a nap and then eat again.

The restaurant is called Locos de Asar–I have no idea what it means: probably “crazies from somewhere or something”. They even have a website at http://www.locosdeasar.com/e-index.htm. (Be careful if you go there using Firefox–the Spanish version shuts mine down every time–I use IE for this one site.)

We were really pleased with the experience. Both the burned meat and raw fish were tasty and plentiful. I ordered the gargantuan mixed sushi and would not have been able to finish it had not Borko so kindly helped me by eating the four caviar rolls and one smoked salmon roll.

The décor is upscale and the waiters are attentive and even speak a decent amount of English. I kept ordering in Spanish and he kept answering me in English…..

The first half of the menu even has good English subtitles, not the usual Babelfish or Google translation that comes out as “meat-traditional style”. (It seems to me that offers some interesting possibilities depending upon whether you are a beef eater from the States or a cannibal from Papua New Guinea…)

They even have a low calorie menu. Hmmm.

The only negative was that they did not serve Coca Cola–only that cheap imitation stuff that tastes like muddy water with sugar added. I guess you can’t have everything.

I enjoyed myself so much, I am going to try to break out again soon. If my van ever gets release from customs, I will be able to start touring around with much greater ease. It is promised to me on Tuesday. But since it was also promised; before Christmas, on January 3rd, on January 11th, and this past Thursday: I am not holding my breath. I don’t look good in Yankee blue-face…

I have really been remiss in writing in this blog, but I’ve simply been so busy with my real job that I have not had time to do it.

Therefore, this entry is going to be catch as catch can…

FIRSTLY, the weather is absolutely, positively, wonderful! Warm, sunny days without any humidity, and cool pleasant nights. This is the weather in Montevideo I live for: excuse me, for which I live. (I know there are grammarians lurking about out there.)

SECONDLY, we lost one puppy—I’m not sure how, it just disappeared. The good news is that the remaining 7 are healthy, growing like weeds, their eyes are open, and they are beginning to stumble about. I am confident the remaining four males and three females will make it. One downside is that Lucy has become more aggressive and tries to keep King Harry from my bedroom. She also nips the maids if they get too close. I’m hoping this passes once the puppies start running about. (There will be more pictures when Harry posts again.)

THIRDLY, Thanksgiving dinner was a huge hit; thanks especially to our staff, who did most of the work, Clara, who cooked up a storm, the other people who cooked 3 of the imported turkeys for us, and everyone who brought food or drinks and helped us all have a good time. I think in total we had between 80 and 90 people. Next year we may have to rent the hippodrome. (See pictures at the end too.)

On December 9, the Good Lord and the shipping line willing, my van will leave Yankee-occupied America, and be on its way to the Oriental Republic. It is “scheduled to arrive” on January 3. Allegedly, I will be able to have it within a day or two. However, since that is a holiday season, I am not going to hold my breath.

I am hoping to be able to use it to tour Uruguay, at least on a half-time basis, in February and March, so that I can write a second edition to my book—updated and expanded.

PENULTIMATELY, there will be another Open House gathering in Piriápolis on Saturday, December 15 from 5 to 10 p.m. at the same venue as last time. Steve Bowman of CoastalUruguay.com is the prime mover, and yours truly will wheel his way out, along with Harry and some of the UruguayLiving.com gang. Mark your calendar now! More details will follow soon.

AND FINALLY, please remember our Open House is held every Thursday evening from 6 p.m. until we throw the last drunk out. That being said, only gringos ever show up before eight o’clock. I usually do not wander downstairs until about 7:30 p.m. The Uruguayans show up in force fashionably between 8:30 and 9 p.m. (The only Thursday when we MIGHT cancel the open house is between Christmas and New Year’s Day. If we do cancel it, it will be announced here and in the forum.)

Every year since 1992 the people of Montevideo have lined up to buy as many Big Macs as they can from celebrities and public officials working the counters at Ronald McDonald’s place.

WOW! I can finally be a junk food junkie and feel good about it—at least for the day. How does that jingle go again: “two all beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions on a sesame seed bun…”

Ray Kroc would be proud!

]]> http://www.uruguayliving.com/2007/11/16/big-mac-day-in-uruguay/feed/ 1 http://www.uruguayliving.com/2007/11/14/hollywood-in-parque-prado/ http://www.uruguayliving.com/2007/11/14/hollywood-in-parque-prado/#comments Wed, 14 Nov 2007 18:19:23 +0000 The Southron http://www.uruguayliving.com/2007/11/14/hollywood-in-parque-prado/ Last night Borko and I were having dinner at Cafe Misterio in Carrasco with an attorney friend. We were there mainly so I could have good sushi and Borko didn’t have to endure it. For some reason the only fish he likes is a nasty bottom feeder that only lives in the lakes and streams of Montenegro….go figure.

Anyway, as the story goes, we were sitting there minding our own business when a well known face went by. I vaguely recognized him, not being much of a movie buff (the last time I went into a cinema was in 1991) and Borko and our friend immediately knew who it was–Mickey Rourke the actor.

It turns out he is here making a movie in Parque Prado( I have no idea about what) and that it was broadcast on the radio that “if you think you have seen Mickey Rourke, you have”.

With Hollywood here, the neighborhood is surely going to HELL. (I was going to say, “to the dogs”, but I LIKE dogs!)

On Thursday 22 November at our usual Thursday Open House we will be celebrating Thanksgiving Day. (This is my favorite Yankee holiday because it includes lots of food!)

In keeping with our tradition if integrating Gringo and Uruguayo customs, we will be having BOTH traditional Uruguayan ASADO and traditional American TURKEY and stuffing.

The turkeys are currently captive in customs but should be paroled in time for the big day. Apparently Immigration believes they intend to overstay their 90 day visa. I have assured Immigration that there will be no trace of them left by the end of this month.

We desperately need some volunteers to cook the turkeys. We plan to smoke one here, but need people to cook the other four we have bought. Cranberry sauce has already been graciously provided.

In order for all to enjoy the evening we ask whomever is willing and able to volunteer a contribution of a little time and effort. The list below is available for volunteers.

Please advise which of the following you are able to provide for sharing.

• Dressing (bread stuffing)
• Green salad
• Mashed potatoes
• Candied sweet potatoes
• Creamed onions
• Dinner rolls
• ‘Pumpkin’ pie
• Apple pie
• Ice cream
• Whipped cream

If you have a special dish you wish to bring it will be appreciated. This is an excellent opportunity to share good food with good company.

If you want to volunteer, please email Clara at yppah1@gmail.com or PM her on SociedadSouthron.net.

AS USUAL, EVERYONE IS INVITED! 

Friday I ordered a enslada mixta, a mixed salad with greens and assorted other stuff that they throw in—I throw back out anything I can’t pronounce (plus any carrots which I can pronounce). The waiter asked me if I wanted dressing: my choices included several types of oil, a couple types of vinegar, and a half lemon thrown in for variety. I prudently chose the virgin olive oil and the balsamic vinegar—mainly because I knew what those two were.

But there are other choices as well. Our local Uruguaya-Americana food expert, Clara, has been kind enough to put together a glossary of terms to help me and other ignorant gringos like me. A quick review of the glossary shows me the following oil and vinegar choices (Southron kibitzing is in italics—don’t blame Clara):

Aceite = oil—I guess this is the “oil du jour”

Aceite de Oliva = olive oil (a wide selection of types, flavors and strengths)—if there is such a wide selection, how come I only ever hear of ‘virgin’ and ‘extra virgin’—how the heck do you get an extra virgin anyway?

Aceite de girasol = sunflower oil

Aceite de maiz= corn oil

Aceite de arroz = rice oil. Used for frying as it tolerates higher heat.

Vinagre = vinegar—I guess this is the “vinegar du jour”—I am never ashamed to use a good line twice…