Last weekend several of the UruguayLiving gang, The Southron included, trekked to Piriápolis for the social event of the Spring: Ken’s “Open Houseâ€. Ken had asked us to bring some ice along; which seemed innocuous enough, until we had made six stops on the eastern side of Cerro San Antonio (St. Anthony’s Hill) without finding any ice! I think Mikey finally resorted to chipping some off the famous Piriá glacier near Pan de Azuchar. This ominous feeling was reinforced by an American at Ken’s party who averred that he moved to Uruguay because “global warming is going to make the sea-level rise by 286 feet (about 83 m)â€. I wonder if he realizes that if he is right, almost all of Uruguay will be underwater? I didn’t catch his name. Maybe it is Noah?
But I digress…
Since it was a holiday weekend (Columbus Day), we decided to stay in Piriápolis for three days. Accordingly, we loaded up the Land Rover and a rented car Friday afternoon in the drizzle, and headed east into a lowering sky and strengthening rainstorm. By the time we reached Atlantida, the rainstorm had turned into a monsoon—by the turnoff from the highway to Piriápolis, we were wondering if we could trade the four-wheel-drive for pontoons. Somehow, we made it to Piriápolis. Of course, as soon as we were no longer driving, the rain reverted to a safe and almost pleasant drizzle.
Since we had three dogs, a hotel was out of the question. (“Pet-friendly†accommodations are virtually unknown in Uruguay.) However, we were most graciously accommodated in a house near the beach, owned by Mikey’s father. It was a wonderful summer house with two parillas (inside and outside). It was also fenced, which made it nice for the three dogs.
After unpacking—it was only lightly sprinkling now—we huddled together to tackle the most pressing problem of the age, or perhaps at least of the moment: food. After some discussion, my suggestion that we “eat out†was adopted. Piriápolis being a beach community, and this not being “the seasonâ€, our options were somewhat limited. We opted to eat at La Pasiva on the Rambla (every street running alongside the water seems to be called Rambla). Despite the fact that La Passiva is as common in Uruguay as Kentucky Fried Chicken is in the South, I had never been to one—I had eaten some of their food via home delivery, but I had never set foot (or wheels) inside of one. The food was decent middle fare and the portions were huge. I had a small mixed salad, which came on a foot-long platter ringed by sliced tomatoes—it really is was enough for four.
After dinner, I exercised my usual good sense (brought on by age and exhaustion) and opted for bed instead of partying. My colleagues being younger, stronger, and with much less mileage opted for partying. Each being content with his choice, I curled up in bed by myself, unless of course you count Harry, the West Highland White Terrier sleeping on the pillow next to me, Lucy the now pregnant German Shepherd, at my feet, and Santiago’s yellow Lab puppy Luna, who threw herself against my left side—at least I wouldn’t be cold.
The next morning broke bright and sunny and warm. I was thrilled. So were the dogs because the backyard was covered with mud at least 6 inches (15cm) deep.
As Harry and Lucy were both mature dogs, they were both fairly fastidious. Luna, on the other hand, with the wild abandon of a college freshman on spring break, dove into the mud with gusto. She spent 30 minutes digging out a muddy pond so she could get really soaked. The best part was when she decided to go wake up Santiago, and jumped up in bed with him: now she was a yellow, black and brown mud covered retriever. Fortunately, Santiago is an amiable guy, so no blood was shed. As he came staggering into the kitchen, it was however immediately obvious that he had been the recipient of Luna’s mudd slathered affections.
What a way to start the day!
In a very short time (as Uruguay counts time) everyone was up, the mud had been washed from the bodies of canines and humans alike, and Harry and the humans left for lunch on the way to Ken’s house. (Harry had been specifically invited to attend—The Southron was only invited as a courtesy to Harry!) Prudently the two big dogs were locked in the house before we left in order to prevent their re-mudification.
After a wonderful lunch at the port, we headed towards Ken’s house, but only after our previously mentioned tour of possible ice sightings on the east side of Piriápolis.
Ken, Marlyn and the children were perfect hosts: the ambience was friendly and informal, and both the potables and comestibles were ample and excellent (of course it was Asado). It was a real joy to see so many of our eastern “familyâ€, that I had not seen, in many cases, for months. The gathering was everything Sociedad Southron could hope for; it included Uruguayos, Europeans, Canadians, Aussies, Southrons and even even some polite Yankees. People had come from as far away as East of Punta Del Este, Atlantida, and Montevideo in the West.
There was some discussion of trying to keep these gatherings going on, at the least, on a monthly basis until the fall. This would certainly be a great idea! I understand, from the people at www.CoastalUruguay.com, that they are going to host a similar event in Piriápolis in December. My hope is that these gatherings will grow where ever there are groups of immigrants in order to help foster their integration into Uruguayo society. My plan is to visit as many of these gatherings as I can (o r to which Harry can get me invited.).
Thank you Ken, Marlyn, Lia, and Ethan from The Southron, Harry and the Gang! Borko was sorry he could not be there, but it is a long commute from Montenegro—but he’ll be back for the next one!
(By the way: the warmth here in NOT from global warming, it is from the Uruguayos themselves—but that is something I don’t think Mr. Gore would recognize, even if it jumped up and bit him in the butt…)
NOTE, FOR THOSE WHO READ THIS RIGHT AFTER THE INITIAL POSTING: I have not gone senile–I wrote this with voice recognition (???) software–I think it needs some work…





I thought it was warm down there this time of year! And yet you had a three-dog night! :)
Left by futurexpat on October 22nd, 2007
Hello! I m sorry the dog accomodations are non existent. Cute story about the dogs in the mud.
I have millions of questions. Weather. Is there a good site to see temperature trends, rainfall & humidity?
Is any place warm in Uruguay at least most of the year? When summer finally hits is it too humid to enjoy?
I like the fact that you have rain there every month. Does that keep the dust down.
by the way, I love this site!!! Thank you
Left by joanna on May 21st, 2008