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UruguayLiving.com

 
The best lifestyle in the world for the price…
This is the journal of The Southron, an American Emigrant from Florida who has spent the last decade living in the West Indies, former Yugoslavia and Costa Rica. He moved to Montevideo, Uruguay at the end of February 2006...

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Panama versus Uruguay

Posted by southron on May 4th, 2008

Very early this past Thursday morning I returned home to Uruguay after a 12 day trip to Panama. I had not been there in four years and was interested to compare it to Uruguay since it had been the prime alternative to moving here.

Panama was incredible! It was the most dynamic city I have visited in years. It is clearly replacing Miami as Latin America’s primary financial center. There are more banks in one small barrio in Panama City than there are in Uruguay. More business is done every day in Panama than is done all year in Montevideo. Everywhere I looked new buildings were going up: not little buildings–20 to 40 story concrete and steel towers. Real estate values are soaring. One of my business associates bought office space on Avenida Balboa (Panama’s version of Rambla) a few years ago for US$73 per square meter. Offices in his building are now selling for US$3000 per square meter.

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Telecoms the right way.

Posted by southron on April 6th, 2008

My last blog entry about ANTEL and the ridiculous and insensitive way in which it operates drew more comments than any other entry I’ve written, at least for a very long time. The truth is that I really hate to say bad things about anything in Uruguay, and I feel an obligation to tell the whole story, rather than being a perpetual Pollyanna.

At least one good thing came out and that terrible experience. I discovered a telecom company that apparently wants to do business the right way: Claro, which was formerly CTI Móvil. We discovered it in our hunt for alternative Internet access during the ANTEL debacle.

NOTE:  Since this was published several people have pointed out to me that Claro and Telmex are both ultimately owned by Carlos Slim. Maybe he needs to take a hard look at TelMex’s management and practices…

One solution turned out to be G3 wireless modems. We’d previously gotten one from ANTEL (I know, I know: I should’ve known better) because I wanted one that would work throughout the entire country. It does work, but the bandwidth isn’t very good. So, during the crisis, we decided to explore other options.

The Claro modem was the cheapest at 500 pesos per month with the first month free. It also had the best local bandwidth: I was able to get a steady 236kb. The one year contract promised to have countrywide service by the end of this calendar year. AND, in something unheard of in this business climate, they offered a five-day return with no questions asked.

Since the first modem worked so well, we bought two more. In addition we are negotiating with them for cellphones and modems for our entire staff, and also looking into the possibility of them providing a wireless backup Internet for the next time ANTEL decides to engage in it self-indulgent idiocy.

My plan is to do business with companies that want to do business properly whenever possible, and to promote them through my websites. Please note, I have no financial interest in Claro nor any business arrangement for promoting them. I am doing it for the good of Uruguay and those who live here or want to live here. I am convinced that good business practices will eventually drive out the bad.

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ANTEL is WORSE than Costa Rica’s Telecom!!!

Posted by southron on March 31st, 2008

I never thought that I would ever find any telecommunications company anywhere that was worse than Costa Rica’s state owned company called ICE, the Costa Rican Institute for everything electrical (probably including the static electricity you generate by shuffling your feet on the carpet). ICE is responsible for electrical power, telephones, cellular telephones, Internet and who knows what else.

I thought I had found the nadir in state owned company performance when ICE announced that the number of incoming calls to their ADSL helpline had dropped by 85% over the previous month—it turns out that it was only because they had changed the helpline number and not told anyone.

Over the last 5 days ANTEL managed to sink even below the abysmal standards of ICE. A whole area of the city, including our offices had their telephones and Internet connections turned off for 5 days without any real prior warning. I admit, there was a recorded announcement left on our answering machine several hours after our office closed last Wednesday night informing us that everything would be turned off Thursday as of 8 a.m—90 minutes before our offices open. Of course, we didn’t find out about it until nothing worked when the office opened at 9:30 a.m.

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Summer’s last hurrah…

Posted by southron on March 16th, 2008

Despite the fact that Uruguay is the least Christian country in South America, I am amazed at the increase in piety whenever there is a Christian holiday to be celebrated. Its seems that even communists and atheists are converted, at least for the duration of the holiday. To show this piety, the majority of Uruguayans who are able gather in those parts of the country nearest to Jerusalem where the holy week events first place. This means that they force themselves to do penance in the hot sun on the beaches of Punta del Este and La Paloma.

Since I am Orthodox, my holy week comes a bit later and will probably be commemorated in a slightly different way.

Holy week, which is also known as Tourism Week (because everyone in the country tries to be a tourist this week), and by three or four other names I cannot remember, is the Uruguayan equivalent of US Labor Day weekend–it is the summer’s last hurrah and everyone tries to take a four-day holiday, if not the entire week. For the last time until Christmas Montevideo will become a virtual ghost town. Stores and restaurants will be closed and services will be hard to get.

This week is also only the second time since its inception in which our Thursday night Open House gatherings will be canceled. We will resume a week later on March 27.

To those of you Commemorating the Passion and Resurrection of Jesus Christ, I extend my prayers and best wishes.

Health insurance? What’s that?

Posted by southron on March 15th, 2008

It has been more than 17 years since I was last covered by health insurance. Because of the brain tumor I had removed in 1990, I was considered “uninsurable”.

Providentially for me, I enjoyed decent health until the accidents that crippled me in 1998. By that time I was living outside the United States, so I was able to afford health care even without insurance. (Admittedly, some of the health care was provided by practitioners whose credentials might be considered by some–anyone with an IQ above 30 –as suspect. I remember that on the island of Nevis they only had one class of physicians, and consequently even Chiropractors could prescribe drugs- “take two of these pills daily, and return three times a week forever”. The the university degree of the chief health officer of the island, a doctor whose name I do not remember, was R.N.)

But all of that changed when I came to Uruguay! Every legal resident who pays Social Security is entitled to choose from among several HMOs which are totally paid for by one’s Social Security contribution. In addition, there is also a government health service to care for the needs of the poor, and private health insurance as well (for which I could not qualify because of my pre-existing conditions).

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Spring forward, fall between the cracks…

Posted by southron on March 8th, 2008

About six months ago, the time change was easy: the US and the EU went back to standard time, while Uruguay simultaneously started using summer time. The net effect was that we became two hours farther from the US, and two hours closer to the EU.

At two o’clock tomorrow morning this process will begin to unravel, but only half way.

As of tomorrow, Uruguay will go off of summer time in the United States will go on daylight saving time; which means that we will become two hours closer to the US than we have been for the last 6 months (this is undoubtedly the most important result of the visit of King George II to Uruguay–without him, time might have stood still).

However, our time relative to the EU will only become more distant by one hour because the EU does not start its summer time for another few weeks on the last Sunday of this month.

As of tomorrow, this will mean that Uruguay will be only one hour later than Washington, DC time, and will be three hours earlier than London time.

Right now I care about these things, this is because I do business with people all over the world. When I finally retire to a campo to spend my time writing and causing trouble, I won’t care what time it is.

Technology update: Internet is getting better!

Posted by southron on March 1st, 2008

One of the things about which I am most pleased is the fact the Internet service provided by Antel is getting much better. The bandwidth has increased, while the prices remain the same.

Last year, in a desperate search to get sufficient bandwidth we bought an expensive router that would aggregate Internet bandwidth from two sources. We connected an ADSL line from Antel and a microwave link from TelMex. The Antel line cost about $84 per month, and the TelMex link cost $850 per month (that was because we bought “guaranteed” bandwidth). I must tell you, that the TelMex service was HORRIBLE! Despite the “guarantee” there were many times when my total bandwidth was less than 128K, even when no one else was in the building. We called to complain almost daily, but with no effect. 

However one year and US$10,000 later we are free from TelMex.

We have replaced the TelMex link with a second bigger ADSL line. And we have upgraded the first ADSL line as well. Now our total Internet Bill is about $400 a month, and we have more bandwidth all the time.

Perhaps the best news is that Antel has committed a significant investment to build a huge new fibre optic pipeline that will connect to the Internet backbone through Brazil–this will effectively obviate Argentina’s policy of choking off Internet access in Uruguay by limiting the bandwidth they allow us to buy from them.

My next adventure is the new G3 wireless modem for my laptop. I will be testing that out in the next week or so and will let you know. I am guardedly optimistic.

Life in Uruguay is good, and the technology is getting better!

Buying a pig in a poke: the language bait-and-switch.

Posted by southron on March 1st, 2008

As much as I love living in Uruguay, there are some things that I don’t like. (Of course, I might even complain about the choice of music sung by the heavenly choirs in the celestial realms…)

Nevertheless, it is my responsibility to report both the good and the bad, so that you don’t make some of the same mistakes that I have or that I have seen others make.

One of those mistakes is being caught in the language bait-and-switch. This happens when you visit a company or professional firm to discuss doing business with them. The person with whom you meet speaks good English and you have no trouble communicating with him. You leave with the impression that this person will be the one with whom you are working.

The next time you contact them you speak to someone or receive an e-mail from someone who speaks English as badly as I speak Spanish. You get frustrated; especially because you are paying more than local rates in order to deal with English speakers. (This is especially common in larger firms or companies that claim to specialize in dealing with foreigners.) Ultimately the situation deteriorates and then collapses, and you are worse off than when you started, and certainly poorer.

While this has happened to me, it has not had the impact it might on others because I have an office full of bilingual people. But this could be disastrous for you.

My suggestion is that when you consider doing business with a company or firm with an English-speaking “front man”, you find out EXACTLY who will be doing the work for you, and that you insist on meeting that person and speaking with that person, BEFORE you agree to hire them or buy from them. Then, make sure that this is confirmed in writing.

I guarantee you, this piece of advice will save you hours of frustration, and, for those of us who do such things, hundreds less curse words to tell our confessor about… (My confessions usually start out, “Bless me Father, for I have sinned. I have taken the Lord’s name in vain, 250 times, this morning…)

Uruguay’s Autobahn

Posted by southron on February 23rd, 2008

Last night I went to a birthday party Piriápolis.  I arrived fairly early, getting there a bit after midnight.  (Parties only really get going here at midnight and run until dawn the next day, or even later.)  Being old and feeble, I left around 2:15 a.m..  Riding home on the main highway along the coast, which is called the Interbalnearia, I was struck by the similarity among it, an interstate highway in the US, and the autobahn in Europe.  It seemed so normal–even by Gringo standards: four lanes lit by halogen lights precisely distributed data manicured median.

I realized that before I came Uruguay I did not imagine that such a highway existed in South America–I was just an ignorant Gringo! My readers are undoubtedly more knowledgeable and sophisticated than I, so they certainly will not be surprised by this fact.  However, for that insignificant minority who are as ignorant as I was, I’ve attached the following picture, by saving myself (and you) 833 words.

The first shall be last, and the last shall be second…

Posted by southron on February 13th, 2008

The Copperhead was the first one of our group to file for his residency and get his “in tramite” visa. I was second, and Borko, who showed up a year later, was last.

On Monday I collected my new permanent Cedula at the DNIC. On Friday, exactly 1 year after arriving in Uruguay, or go will get his permanent Cedula. The Copperhead has been notified that his permanent residency has been granted, but he does not yet have an appointment to get his permanent Cedula.

It took me a bit under two years to get my residency. It took Copperhead a bit over two years to get his residency. But it only took Borko a year to get his. Why?

We made some mistakes when we started and we followed bad advice. After months of getting nowhere we switched to someone who could really do the job. When they reviewed our files they found all kinds of technical problems, and had we not hired them, we might still be mired in the bureaucracy. As it stands, because of the terrible “professional advice” we got, neither myself nor Copperhead were able to take advantage of the ability to bring in household goods duty-free within the first six months–for us, that is gone forever.

Borko was different–we started him out with real professionals. Granted, he wasn’t able to bring in household goods either, but that was simply because we didn’t think they would allow him to bring in the machinery to distill Serbian grappa here in Uruguay…

I hope all of my readers profit from my stupid mistakes, and don’t make the same ones. I would far prefer that they make other stupid mistakes that I can write about.


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